I view Bethnal Green the way I view much of London, the way in which any lover of history views old places: seeing many worlds at once, the present overlaid by multiple pasts. I see busy graffiti-covered streets, lights, and signs. On top of that, I see coal-coloured slums, too many people living too hard a life. On top of that, I see green fields; once upon a time, Bethnal Green had a different name and its farms supplied produce to the nearby City of London. And on top of that, I see marshy land and forest.

As a visitor, and later as a Londoner, I was drawn to Bethnal Green, curious about how such a pretty place name could conceal so much hardship. These leafy green streets were bombed in the Second World War; the still remaining Victorian buildings saw overcrowding, poverty, and short life expectancy in Industrial-era Britain; and a lunatic asylum operated for two centuries on the edge of what is now Bethnal Green Gardens, today quiet, calm, and sun-dappled.

One of my favourite London neighbourhoods to walk about in, to people-watch, to read walls with cramped, crowded graffiti and out-of-date posters, and, ultimately, to time travel. This is your area guide to Bethnal Green.

Coffee, brunch & lunch

Tita’s Coffee

A relative newcomer to the Bethnal Green neighbourhood, Tita’s Coffee is a little van that parks up in Weavers Fields to mingle with the community. Filipino-owned, female-run, indeed, it’s a one-woman show for owner Jamilla, who started this business in memory of her tita – aunt in Filipino – who always wanted to have a coffee shop.

Weavers Fields, E2 | Tita’s Instagram

Focaccia Mia

48-hour fermented focaccia generously filled to create the ultimate sandwich. The vegetarian Parmigiana, with baked aubergine, a 6-hour slow-cooked tomato sauce, provola, basil, and pecorino, easily holds its own alongside flavour-punchers like the chimichurri with grilled rib-eye, chimichurri, garlic mayo, and crispy shallots. Keep an eye on their Instagram for the special of the month.

Poyser Street, E2 | focacciamialdn.co.uk

The Common E2

Café, community space, art gallery, The Common E2 takes the ‘green’ in Bethnal Green seriously – you would be forgiven for thinking it was a plant shop at first glance. It’s cosy, welcoming, with loose leaf teas, freshly ground coffee, and breakfast and brunch that always hits the spot – nothing too heavy but always filling. It’s dog-friendly and also laptop-friendly on weekdays between 8 am and 11 am, so expect to see people working away here during the mornings.

Bethnal Green Road, E2 | thecommone2.com

Holy Shot Coffee

At the Shoreditch end of Bethnal Green Road, I like this hole-in-the-wall neighbourhood spot on a sunny morning with a small table outside. Filter coffee. Eggs on toast. The menu is small, decently priced, and does breakfast comfort foods perfectly.

Bethnal Green Road, E2 | holyshotcoffee.com

Dining

E Pellicci’s

Let’s start with this Bethnal Green institution. Great for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, from your full Englishes to your Italian comfort classics like cannelloni and penne Napoli. This Art Deco greasy spoon and Italian eatery has been around since 1900, and it’s still family-run, well-loved, and inseparable from the Bethnal Green landscape.

Bethnal Green Road, E2 | epellicci.co.uk

A Portuguese Love Affair

A Portuguese Love Affair is in the borderland of Bethnal Green, but on the right side of Hackney Road for me to include it. The deli, café, and wine bar and shop are run (unsurprisingly) by a pair of Portuguese expats. Coffee, wine, bifana, sardines, and some of the best pastel de nata, all your Portuguese longings are taken care of here – amazing atmosphere, delicious food, and a real sense of community.

Hackney Road, E2 | A Portuguese Love Affair Instagram

Rogues.

Technically in Cambridge Heath, but who’s splitting hairs? Cosy, candlelit space, chalkboard menu, stellar seasonal dishes, definitely the kind of place a rakish individual would try to woo you. Rogues is for date-night: with your partner, yourself, or your best mate. I was pleased with the size of the dishes and the clever pairings. This little hole-in-the-wall won me over with its restaurant ethos: a set menu that changes daily according to what’s available at the market.

Hackney Road, E2 | rogueslondon.uk

Arepa & Co

I’m typically wary of businesses that have more than one location, with a few exceptions, Arepa being one. Venezuelan cuisine is hard to come by, so I’m not complaining about the multiple locations. Named after Venezuelan arepas – a flatbread made with ground maize and stuffed with the likes of shredded beef, chicken or ox cheek and a healthy amount of cheese. I’d also recommend the toston avo – twice-cooked plantain crostini with pico de gallo, picante mayo, and avo mash, and the yuca fries.

Paradise Row, E2 | arepaandco.com

Drinking

Spoilt for choice, especially along Bethnal Green, Cambridge Heath and Hackney Roads, with the likes of Salmon & Ball, The Dundee Arms, The Sebright Arms, and for cocktails, there’s Câv, Satan’s Whiskers, and Coupette. But below are some of my absolute favourites and not to be missed.

The Approach Tavern

A lovely old Victorian pub, relatively untouched, survived the Blitz and the influx of hipsters. It’s on a quiet, leafy street corner, still has a working fireplace, and is the epitome of a cosy old-timey pub. When the weather’s lovely, I love sitting in the front beer garden with mates, and when it’s chilly, I like the fire-toasty indoors. Dog-friendly and has an open mic night if that’s your thing. There’s also an art gallery upstairs (more on that below).

Approach Road, E2 | theapproachtavern.co.uk

The Florist Arms

I always seem to find myself in this pub when the Euros or World Cup are on, and always when I’m hungover. There’s something soothing about this old pub’s dark wood interiors and low-key atmosphere that soothes my hangovers (that and the hare of the dog). I like the comfy sofas that I can sink into, especially the one in a little alcove. I like that it’s a pub for locals and their dogs, and that it’s still independently owned, which feels radical in the era of chains and franchises.

Globe Road, E2 | floristarms.co.uk

The Sun Tavern

A popular one, most people who know Bethnal Green recommend it, and it’s been around for quite some time (you can see the Sun Tavern circa 1980 in this blog post’s hero image). It’s a late-night bar for me, the place I end up when I’ve had few, rubbing elbows with strangers and shouting to be heard over the DJ who’s set up their decks at the end of the bar, or crammed into the little alcove seating at the back of the bar having my third Pisco Sour. It’s chaotic, it’s alive, and I’ve taken home many a coaster.

Bethnal Green Road, E2 | thesuntavern.co.uk

The Hare

Another one that’s technically in Cambridge Heath and another favourite when I’m in the Bethnal Green area. The Hare belongs to that endangered species, proper East End old man pubs, propped up by locals. Dimly lit, tables overflowing with pint glasses, and not a small plate in sight. The kind of place where you just want a pint on your own (or to chat to another solo drinker standing at the bar).

Cambridge Heath Road, E2 | theharee2.com

Bethnal Green Working Men’s Club

The first time I ended up here, I was several drinks deep and following my mates on the promise of karaoke. This is how everybody’s first visit to the Bethnal Green Working Men’s Club should be. It’s a long-standing favourite in the neighbourhood, inclusive, with fabulous performances, nights, and events. There’s a limited number of spirit mixers but a vast array of karaoke tunes, and it needs your patronage. I sang “Superfreak” by Rick James, by the way and brought down the house.

Pollard Row, E2 | workersplaytime.net

Things to do

There’s a lot of ground to cover in Bethnal Green, depending on where you think it starts and ends. Plenty of square mileage of shops, including more than a few plant shops, a gallery or two, and the Young V&A and the Vagina Museum. My favourite thing to do in the neighbourhood (besides haunt the bars and pubs) is to people-watch and stroll through the green spaces.

The Approach Gallery

Small contemporary art gallery above The Approach Tavern. The exhibitions are always evocative, I’ve enjoyed the selection of painters that have been exhibited from the likes of John Maclean, Mike Silva, and Jai Chuhan – all artists I discovered thanks to The Approach Gallery.

Approach Road, E2 | The Approach Gallery Instagram

Bethnal Green Public Library

Occupying a wing of the former lunatic asylum that stood at the edge of Bethnal Green Gardens for two centuries. In 1920, the then Metropolitan Borough of Bethnal Green purchased the property and renovated the former men’s wing of the asylum into the public library it is today. Like much of the East End, it also survived a bombing during the Blitz.

Cambridge Heath Road, E2 | ideastore.co.uk

Columbia Road Flower Market

So Instagram and TikTok famous now that you’re best off going right when it opens to try and beat the influencer crowd and throngs of people, but still worth mentioning as it is London’s loveliest-looking market with equally lovely local shops and businesses to pop in and out of.

Columbia Road, E2 | columbiaroad.info

Green spaces

Bethnal Green lives up to its name, with tree-lined streets, Bethnal Green Gardens, Weavers Fields, and is bordered by Vicky Park and Mile End Park. Alternatively, take a stroll along – or canoe in – Regent’s Canal, my favourite place to hang out on golden summer afternoons.

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